Lowdown

New Delhi Is The Granddaddy Of Indian Buffets. For Its 20th Anniversary, The Space Received A Facelift, With Floor-to-ceiling Glass Paneling And A Softly Swooping Abstract Waveform Of A Ceiling. Guests Load Up At The Ever-popular Lunch Buffet; The Dishes Are Familiar, But The Colors Shine And The Flavors Pop. A Creamy Navratan Korma Is A Kaleidoscope Of Green Zucchini, Orange Carrots And Pale Broad Beans Swimming In A Sunshine-yellow Sauce. The Meats Are Tender, There's A Tangy Sauce For The Samosas And There's Mango Ice Cream For Dessert If The Cashew-studded Rice Pudding Doesn't Tempt You- Or Even If It Does. Unlimited Piping-hot Naan Is The Crowning Glory Of These Steam Tables. The Bar Also Serves Two Imported Beers: Taj Mahal, A Menacing 22-ounce Lager, And Kingfisher, A More Accessible 12-ouncer.....city Paper 2008.